Interweave Knitting Terms & Glossary

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Knitting Abbreviations Glossary
All of these decreases are worked on the knit rows only, with the exception of SSP. Bind Off Cut the yarn three times the width of the knitting to be bound off, and thread onto a tapestry needle. Work to the buttonhole opening, drop new yarn, pick up other yarn without crossing yarn ends , work to end of row. After several inches have been worked, pull on the short end shown by arrow to tighten the loop and close the circle. Wind thread twice around needle, insert needle into work and pull thread through, leaving four loops on needle. From the late nineteenth through the middle twentieth century, masterpieces of stranded color work—Fair Isle sweaters, stockings, and caps—were handknitted with fantastic speed by knitters of the Shetland archipelago in northern Scotland.


Cast on three four, five, six stitches as follows: Bring yarn to back, slip first stitch on left needle onto right needle and pass last cast-on stitch over it Figure 4 , work to end of row. If there are no established stitches, begin with a slipknot, knit one stitch in slipknot and slip this new stitch knitwise to left needle. Wrap yarn as if to purl. Draw yarn through to complete stitch and slip this new stitch knitwise to the left needle.

For a knit stitch, insert right needle from front to back between first two stitches on left needle. Wrap yarn as if to knit. When attaching to an edge without live stitches: With double-pointed needle, cast on number of stitches directed in pattern. Insert threaded needle under two rows, right next to the selvedge, and up through both layers of fabric.

Count back one row and insert the needle under the next two rows. Continue this circular motion-ahead two rows from where the working yarn emerged from the previous row, and then back one row. Working from right to left, one stitch in from selvage, bring threaded needle up through both pieces of knitted fabric Figure 1 , then back down through both layers a short distance about a row to the right of the starting point Figure 2.

Knit into a stitch and leave it on the needle Figure 1. Knit through the back loop of the same stitch Figure 2. Slip both stitches off the needle Figure 3. If there are no established stitches, begin with a slipknot, knit one stitch in slipknot and slip this new stitch to left needle. Casting on lays the foundation for your knitting project. It is the method by which stitches are formed that you then knit or purl to form your knitted item.

Download our free eBook to learn more about how to Cast-On. Knit into the back and front of the next stitch on the left needle, then insert the tip of the left needle behind the vertical strand that runs between the two stitches just made Figure 1 and knit the strand through its back loop—two stitches increased Figure 2.

Bring threaded needle out from back to front at center of a knitted stitch. Form a short loop and insert needle back where it came out. Keeping the loop under the needle, bring needle back out in center of next stitch to the right.

This cast-on method is worked with a crochet hook and can be used in one of two ways: If the decorative cast-on is desired, use the working yarn for the crochet chain. For a provisional cast-on, use waste yarn for the chain and then knit a plain row with the working yarn the provisional cast-on is not complete until there is a row of working yarn stitches on the needle.

Place a slipknot on crochet hook. Hold knitting needle and yarn in your left hand and hook in your right hand, with yarn under needle. Place hook over needle, wrap yarn around hook and pull loop through loop on hook Figure 1. Slip loop from hook to needle for last stitch. This cast-on was originally used on the hems of fisherman sweaters, thus the name Channel Island. It pairs beautifully with k1, p1 ribbing or garter stitch.

Undo the slipknot just before weaving in the tails. Lay thread s to be covered on top of knitted background. Bring threaded needle out from back to front at side of thread s. Bring needle back out a short distance away. Insert crochet hook into first stitch on needle, as if to knit. Wrap yarn around hook Figure 1 , pull this loop through stitch on needle, and let stitch drop off needle.

Make a slipknot on hook. Yarn over hook and draw it through loop of slipknot. Repeat, drawing yarn through the last loop formed. With smooth, contrasting waste yarn and crochet hook, make a loose chain of about four stitches more than you need to cast on. Cut yarn and pull tail through last chain to secure.

With needle, working yarn, and beginning two stitches from last chain worked, pick up and knit one stitch through the back loop of each chain Figure 1 for desired number of stitches.

Working left to right, insert needle at upper right edge of same stitch and bring it back out at lower left edge of adjacent stitch, directly below and in line with insertion point. Then work from right to left in same manner to work other half of cross. Keeping loop under needle, bring needle back out in center of next stitch over. Work cross-stitch as described at left, then bring needle out at base of crossed yarn, over cross, and back in at top of cross, then out again at left side of cross and back in on right side.

The double cross-stitch in the sample is worked over four knitted stitches. Bring threaded needle out from back to front at the base of the V of the knitted stitch you want to cover. Bring needle back out at the base of the V of the next stitch to the left. Beginning at lowest point, work as for horizontal duplicate stitch, ending by bringing the needle back out at the base of the stitch directly above the stitch just worked.

Make a simple loop of yarn with the short end hanging down Figure 1. After several inches have been worked, pull on the short end shown by arrow to tighten the loop and close the circle. With yarn in front, sl 1 pwise from left needle to right needle. To graft garter stitch, place live stitches on needles held parallel.

Thread tapestry needle with yarn and go through first stitch on front needle as if to purl, then first stitch on back needle as if to purl, leaving both stitches on the needles. Go through first stitch on back needle as if to knit and slip it off the needle, go through second stitch as if to purl and leave it on. With double-pointed needle, cast on desired number of stitches. When there are live stitches or picked-up stitches on left needle: With right side facing, cast on number of stitches needed for I-cord as directed in pattern onto left needle.

These instructions are for a 5-stitch I-Cord. Next row K5, do not turn. Place the first 5 stitches on the right needle onto a holder or bind them off, as the pattern indicates.

Insert right needle purlwise into first stitch on left needle, then knitwise into second stitch to catch front loop of second stitch Figure 2. Draw front loop of second stitch through first stitch and knit it Figure 3. Drop both stitches from left needle Figure 4.

When working intarsia, twist the yarns together at the color change to prevent holes. Working from the right side of the garment, place the pieces to be seamed on a flat surface, right sides up.

Begin at the lower edge and work upward, row by row. Insert a threaded tapestry needle under the horizontal bar in the middle of the edge stitch on one side of the seam, and then under the corresponding bar on the opposite side.

Continue alternating from side to side, pulling the yarn in the direction of the seam, not outward toward your body, to prevent the bars from stretching to the front.

Leaving a tail as for long-tail cast-on, make a slipknot on right needle counts as the first purl stitch. Insert your left thumb and index finger between two strands, with tail end on thumb side. To create the next knit stitch Figure 1 , bring needle toward you, under front strand, up between strands, over back strand to grab it and pull it under front strand to make loop on needle.

To create the next purl stitch Figures 2 and 3 , take needle away from you, over both strands, under both strands, up to grab front strand and pull it under back strand to make loop on needle. Continue alternating knit and purl stitches, ending with a knit stitch. Keeping strands crossed to preserve the last cast-on stitch, work 1 row as foll: Work another series of straight stitches on top of and at right angles to the previous ones.

Then couch the resulting crosses with tiny straight stitches shown or small cross-stitches. Work the first stitch of the second round with color B as follows: Pick up the right side of the stitch in the row below the stitch on the needle it will be color A , put it on the left needle and knit it together with the first stitch on the needle.

You will have worked the first stitch of the round twice, but because you work into the stitch below the one on the needle the second time, you have only worked it for one round and it appears as if it were worked just once. The jog between the two colors disappears and the beginning of the round for color changes only is shifted one stitch to the left.

Do not change the position of markers required for the placement of any shaping decreases or increases such as ones used for waist shaping.

To change to another color, simply repeat the process, working the first stitch of the round a second time by picking up the stitch in the row below the stitch on the needle and knitting it together with the first stitch on the needle, thereby shifting the beginning of the round one more stitch to the left for color changes.

Hold two needles parallel in your right hand, one on top of the other and needle points facing to the left. Leaving a tail long enough to cast on the required number of stitches, drape the yarn over the top needle so the tail is in front and the ball yarn in back Figure 1.

Cross the yarns so the tail is in the back and the ball yarn in the front, then place the thumb and index finger of your left hand between the two strands so that the tail is over your index finger and the ball yarn is over your thumb Figure 2.

This forms the first stitch on the top needle. This forms the first stitch on the bottom needle. Point the needles downward, bring the bottom needle past the thumb yarn, then bring the thumb yarn between the two needles to the front then over the top needle Figure 4. There are now two stitches on the top needle.

Sl 1 st to dpn and hold in back, kl-b, p1, kl-b, then k1 from dpn. Sl 2 k sts to dpn and hold in back, k2, then k2 from dpn. Sl 1 st to dpn and hold in back, k2, then kl from dpn. Sl 2 sts to dpn and hold in back, k2, then k2 from dpn. Insert right-hand needle into the back of next st in the Row below from the top down into the purled loop behind the st on needle , and knit; then knit the st on needle in the usual way.

Then on your purl Row you p 5 tog. It will be very tight but it can be done. This forms the popcorn. You can just push the popcorn to the front side of your work and it will stay there.

There are many methods of knitting bobbles. Select the stitch which is to become a bobble. K into the front, then the back of the stitch, and do it again, twice more. You now have 6 stitches, made from one, on your right-hand needle.

Turn your work and knit these 6 stitches. Turn your work again, lift stitch 2 over stitch 1 and drop it, then do the same with the other 4 stitches. You are now back to the one stitch you started with, and have a bobble.

Instead of knitting in the front, then the back of the stitch, you can knit, then purl into the same stitch. You can do less stitches for a smaller bobble - 4 stitches make a nice, small "bump". If you want a giant, turn your work and knit the bubble stitches several times. Bobble stitch - Crochet - holding last loop of ea st on hook, 5 dc in next st, yo, draw thru all 6 loops on hook, ch 1 to close the bobble. Sl 1 p st to dpn, hold in back, k2, then p1 from dpn.

Insert hook in stitch specified by pattern instructions, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop on hook 3 times, yo, draw through last 2 loops on hook to complete the stitch. BT - Back Twist. Insert needle from front between lst and 2nd stitches and knit the 2nd stitch in back loop; then knit the lst stitch in front loop and sl both sts from needle together.

Insert right-hand needle from back to front between first and second sts, k the second st, then k the first st and slip both sts from needle together. C12B - Cable 12 Back. Slip next 6 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 6 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle. C12F - Cable 12 Front. Slip next 6 sts onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 6 sts from left-hand needle.

C2B - Cross 2 Back. Knit into back of 2nd st on needle, then knit first st, slipping both sts off needle at the same time. C2F - Cross 2 Front. Knit into front of 2nd st on needle, then knit first st, slipping both sts off needle at the same time. C2L - Cross 2 Left. Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next st from left-hand needle, then knit st from cable needle. C2P - Cross 2 Purl.

Purl into front of 2nd st on needle, then purl first st, slipping both sts off needle together. C2R - Cross 2 Right. Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next st from left-hand needle, then knit st from cable needle.

C3 - Cross 3. Knit into front of 3rd st on needle, then knit first st in usual way slipping this st off needle. C3B - Cross 3 Back. Slip next st onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit st from cable needle. C3F - Cross-3 Front. Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next st from left-hand needle,then knit sts from cable needle.

C3L - Cable 3 Left. Slip next st onto cable needle and hold at front of work,knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle,then knit st from cable needle. C3R - Cable 3 Right. Slip next 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back needle, then knit sts from cable needle.

C4B - Cable 4 Back. Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle. C4F - Cable 4 Front or Forward.

Slip next 2 sts onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle.

C4L - Cross 4 Left. Slip next st onto cable needle and leave at front of work, knit next 3 sts from left-hand needle then knit st from cable needle.

C4R - Cross 4 Right. Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and leave at back of work, knit next st from left-hand needle then knit sts from cable needle. C5 - Cable 5. Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle.

C5B - Cable 5 Back. Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, slip the purl st from point of cable needle back onto left-hand needle, purl this st, then k2 from cable needle. C5F - Cable 5 Front. Slip next 3 sts onto a cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, slip the purl st from point of cable needle back onto left-hand needle, purl this st, then k2 from cable needle.

C5L - Cross 5 Left. Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, purl next st on left-hand needle, then knit sts on cable needle.

C5R - Cross 5 Right. Slip the next st onto a cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 4 sts on left-hand needle, then purl the st on cable needle. C6 - Cross 6. Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 2 sts from left-hand needle, then slip the 2 purl sts from cable needle back to left-hand needle.

Pass the cable needle with 2 remaining knit sts to back of work, purl 2 sts from left-hand needle, then knit the 2 sts from cable needle. C6B - Cable 6 Back. Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at. C6F - Cable 6 Front. Slip next 3 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 3 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle. C7B - Cable 7 Back. Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 3 sts on left-hand needle, slip purlst from cable needle onto left-hand needle and purl it, then k3 from cable needle.

C7F - Cable 7 Front. Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 3 sts on left-hand needle,slip purl st from cable needle onto left-hand needle and purl it,then k3 from cable needle. C8B - Cable 8 Back.

Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 4 sts from left-hand needle,then knit sts from cable needle. C8F - Cable 8 Front. Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 4 sts from left-hand needle, then knit sts from cable needle. C9B - Cable 9 Back. Slip next 4 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, knit next 5 sts from left-hand needle,then knit sts from cable needle.

C9F - Cable 9 Front. Slip next 5 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, knit next 4 sts from left-hand needle,then knit sts from cable needle. Changing colors - When changing colors, insert needle into next stitch to be knitted in the new color, take the ends of the old color and new color, pass them over the strand you're about to knit with, and then knit with that strand.

When knitting the next stitch, pass the two ends over the new strand again. Repeat this every stitch or two until you've knit in about 3" of the ends.

Then you can just cut off the remaining ends later but don't cut them flush with the fabric; leave a little bit sticking out on the wrong side. Circle Shell Stitch - For top half of shell: For bottom half of shell: Row 1 Ch number indicated by pattern instructions, dc in 4th ch from hook, dc in each ch across, turn.

Row 2 Ch 1, sc in first st, skip next 3 sts, make top half of shell in back loop of next next st, skip next 3 sts, sc in next st across; turn.

Row 3 Working upside down in Row 2, skip next 3 skipped sts, make bottom half of shell in front loop of same st as top half of shell, skip next 3 skipped sts, slip st around post of next sc across, turn.

Cluster 3 - Knit 3 sts and transfer them onto dpn; then wind yarn 6 times counterclockwise looking down from top around these 3 sts under dpn; then return the 3 sts to right hand needle. Cluster 4 - worked from the wrong side: Wind thread twice around needle and insert into work and pull thread through, thread over needle and pull through two, thread over needle and pull through two, leaving two loops on the needle, thread over needle twice again, insert into work and pull through, thread over needle.

Thread over and pull through three. With needle holding one loop, throw thread once over needle, put needle into work and draw thread through. This will leave three loops on needle.

Throw thread once over needle and pull through two. Again throw thread over needle and pull through remaining two. Cl stem - Cluster on a Stem. Yo 5 times, insert hook in center st of next 3-sc group, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook 5 times, leaving last 2 loops on hook, counting from bottom of stitch just made, make 2 trc cluster in 3rd cross strand, yo, draw through 4 loops on hook, ch 5, 3 trc cluster in same place to complete the stitch.

Cross stitches are usually worked in double crochet, but can be made from different types of stitches, such as triple crochet. Dc in stitch indicated by pattern instructions, skip next stitch, dc in next stitch, working in back or front of last dc, dc in skipped stitch repeat to end of row. Cross stitches can be worked in front or back of previous stitch, by crossing in front of or in back of last stitch.

If pattern instructions do not say front or back cross stitch, use the one most comfortable for you or which provides the desired effect you want. Ch 1, sc first 2 sts tog; for a double stitch , insert hook in same st as last sc made, yo, pull up a loop, insert hook in next unworked st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through all 3 loops on hook; dbl st across with sc in same st as last dbl st.

Wind thread three times around needle and insert into work and pull thread through, which will leave five loops on needle. Work off two at a time, the same as for Double Crochet. DW - Drop Wrap. Drop extra wrappings off needle as the stitch is slipped. Use them interchangeably, whichever method you prefer. Slip one stitch, knit the next, pass the slipped stitch over the knit one. It's not a great match for k2tog, clearly, but can be used decoratively. Knit two stitches together through the back loops.

Nice and tight and neat looking! Unfortunately it needs to be done on the reverse side the purl row , which usually means a row later or earlier than when it is called for.

If you're knitting in the round, you can't use this decrease, since the purl-side never faces you. On the purl row Slip 1 k-wise, slip another k-wise. Return slipped sts to left needle. Insert right needle up into back loops of the two stitches and purl them together from this position.

YO is included to create the hole in the knitting. But since yarn over is an increase, it is banked by two left slanting decreases to equal 1 total decreased stitch. Decreases Decreases remove stitches, narrowing the knitting.